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Plumbing Services Toronto


From repairing and replacing leaking pipes, valves and faucets to unplugging drains, toilets and sinks, you can count on A&V Drain Corp. to fix the problem. We offer a complete range of plumbing services at great prices. If you have a plumbing problem that needs immediate attention, just call A&V Drain Corp. at 647-716-7919 and we are there. A&V Drain Corp. provides a wide range of plumbing services in your home.


DO NOT PANIC

When a plumbing problem pops up, there's no need to panic - you might not even need a plumber. There are a number of plumbing fixes any D.I.Y-er can accomplish with basic tools and a little know-how. Whether it's a clogged drain, broken pipe, a leaking toilet or faucet, your local True Value hardware store has you covered.

Before you begin, stop by for the tools, products and expert advice you need to start right.

Be Prepared

Preparedness is the name of the game. Water damage from broken pipes or leaking appliances can ruin entire rooms of furniture, walls and flooring and more. Routinely check your washing machine hoses and replace them if they appear old or cracked. Look for any signs of water under sinks, around fixtures and near appliances. Check ceilings and walls for any evidence of a roof leak. Make sure that all appliance connections are tight and not leaking.

Helpful Tip:


Keep items in your basement off of the floor where possible. If a pipe bursts and floods your basement, the damage will be minimized and you won't lose any belongings.

Make sure you know how to turn off water to your fixtures and appliances when needed. Also, note the location of your home's main water shutoff valve. It may come in handy if you're unable to turn off water directly to an appliance or fixture, as shutting off the water main cuts off water to the entire building.

Stock up on basic plumbing tools ahead of time before you have a plumbing emergency. Here's a list of items you should definitely have in your toolbox for plumbing repairs:

Pipe wrench
Adjustable (crescent) wrench
Basin wrench
Channel-lock pliers
Auger ("snake")
Hacksaw
Screwdriver set
Nut driver or socket wrench
Plunger
Drain-cleaning tool


Get Rid of Clogs


While they can be a minor problem compared to a busted pipe, clogs can be inconvenient and annoying, and should be taken care of when noticed. Don't wait for the clog to grow and cause more serious problems.

There isn't one method that always works to eliminate a stubborn clog so you may have to try a few things to resolve the problem.

Start with a plunger. Plungers are easy to use and cost-effective. They are particularly useful for removing food particle clogs in the kitchen sink. A plunger also works on soap, grease and hair clogs in a tub, though often not as well. There is a risk that you will just force the clog further down the drain making it harder to remove.

If the plunger doesn't work, try one of the many new drain-cleaning tools that are available. The Zip It drain-cleaning tool is designed specifically to unclog sink and tub drains, especially ones caused by hair and soap scum. It's basically a long, barbed cord made of flexible plastic that is inserted all the way into the drain and then pulled back out. The barbs pull out the hair and gunk that line the inside of the pipes. Drain King\AE drain openers connect to a garden hose and then are inserted into the clogged drain. The Drain King then uses focused water pressure to force the clog out of the pipe.

If neither a plunger nor one of the drain-cleaning tools work, remove the trap below the sink to search for and remove the clog. You can use a bottlebrush to force any material out of the trap and then clean it well with hot, soapy water.

If the trap was not clogged, then it's likely that the clog is in the drainpipe and you'll need to use a snake, also known as an auger, to clear it. You insert the auger and then crank the handle to reach the clog, "spear" it and remove it.

As a last resort, you can use a chemical clog remover. These products are extremely harsh and can damage pipes if used too frequently.
Safety Alert!

Read the manufacturer's directions thoroughly. Chemical clog removers can irritate skin and not all of them are safe for every type of pipe or drain in a bathtub or sink. They can damage or etch some surfaces and types of pipe. Wear gloves and safety glasses to avoid damage to skin or eyes.


Repair Pipes


While some pipes can fail because of age and corrosion, pipes break or burst almost exclusively in winter due to water inside them freezing because of frigid temperatures. A burst pipe can be frustrating and messy, no matter the cause, but it's possible to fix it yourself.

Find out how the pipe was damaged and where it occurred. Open the faucet at the end of the pipe and close the valve that runs into it. Check for holes, cracks or breaks along the pipe. Some pipe repairs are easy. For example, a pinhole can be repaired by simply wrapping the pipe with electrical or duct tape and a hairline crack can be fixed with a pipe clamp.

When using a pipe clamp, first clean the cracked area with a medium- or high-grit sandpaper. Remove any burrs along the crack and then wipe it clean with a rag. Center the clamp over the crack and then tighten the two sides together with the supplied screws until it is a tight fit. Turn water back on and watch for any leaks.

You can use plumber's putty to patch a leaking pipe union. Turn off water to the pipe either at a valve or at the house's main shutoff. Clean the area around the leak with a wire brush and then wipe it with a rag. Apply the putty around the leak as recommended by the manufacturer and let it cure for the appointed time. Then restore water back to the pipe and check for further leaks.

For larger holes, breaks or cracks, try repairing them with a patch kit. Start by sanding the area around the break in the pipe with high-grit sandpaper (at least an 80- or 100-grit). Put on rubber gloves and wet the patch, then wrap it around the pipe where it has burst. Start wrapping at the hole and work out from there; wrap at least 4 or 5 inches in both directions. Wrap it as tightly as possible and then press the patch down by hand to ensure a proper bond. Let the patch dry.

For larger cracks that can't be repaired with a patch kit, you may need to replace that section of pipe. Consider calling in a professional plumber for this kind of repair.


Fix a Leaking Toilet

If water is leaking from around the base of your toilet, check to see if it may have shifted. Shifting can crack the wax seal and allow water to seep out from underneath. To fix this problem, sit on the toilet and twist it back into position. If this doesn't stop leakage, you may need to replace the wax ring. Shut off the water to the toilet. If you don't have an angle stop shut-off valve by your toilet, you need to shut off the water at your home's main shut-off valve. Flush the toilet several times to remove water from the bowl and tank. Then soak up any remaining water with a mop or sponge. Disconnect the water supply tube. Next, detach the bowl from the floor. Unscrew the nuts using a wrench. Tilt the bowl forward and rock it from side-to-side. Lift the bowl from the floor. There is less spillage if the bowl is tilted forward. Pry off the old wax seal that is around the pipe on the floor with a putty knife.

Put the new wax or rubber seal around the hole. Place a new wax ring over the drain horn. Apply a bead of plumber's putty to bottom edge of toilet base.

Turn the bowl back over and position it so the bolts fit through the holes. Twist the bowl a bit to make sure it is in the right place. Press the bowl down to the floor to compress the seal - the best method is to sit on the toilet and rock back and forth. Tighten the nuts on the bolts while you're seated. Be sure not to over-tighten the bolts or you can crack the porcelain. Make sure the toilet is level. Reconnect the supply tube to the new tank. Open the shut-off valve and let the tank fill with water. Test the toilet by flushing a few times. Put on the toilet seat cover and clean up.


Repair a Leaky Faucet


First, determine whether the leak is coming from the hot or cold faucet. Also check whether the water is leaking from the tap or the handle. If it is leaking from the tap, you'll need to replace the washer. If it is leaking from the handle, you'll need to replace the faucet stem or O-ring. Turn off the water at the shut-off valve located just under the sink. Open the faucet to drain out any remaining water. Close the stopper in the sink bowl and place a towel in the sink to protect against scratches or chips.

Remove the decorative top from the faucet handle. Next unscrew the exposed screw and remove the handle. To remove the stem assembly, turn the locknut counterclockwise with a wrench and lift the stem assembly out. If it sticks, try turning it counterclockwise to loosen the stem. At the bottom of the stem assembly is another screw. Remove it and take off the washer underneath.

Take the washer to your local hardware store and purchase an exact match to replace it. If the screw looks worn, replace it with an exact match as well. Clean any corrosion off the stem before replacing it. Replace the washer and screw and reinstall the stem. Put the locknut back on and attach the faucet handle. Replace the decorative cap and turn on the water at the shut-off valve. Turn the faucets on, then off and look or listen for any drips.

Alright! Now you're better prepared for any basic plumbing emergencies that might come your way. For the rest of your home project needs, visit your local hardware store for the tools, products and expert advice you need to start right.

Scheduled sewer connection cleaning

South Cambie house and garden

One of the causes of reoccurring sewer backups are boulevard tree roots that manage to invade underground drainage pipes.

The City provides preventative sewer connection cleaning as a free service, as a means to reduce reoccurring sewer backups throughout Vancouver.

The City crew gains access to the sewer line through a sump that is located indoors or outdoors, a stack, or a stand-pipe connected to the sewer connection.

Automatic program enrolment

If City crews have resolved a backed up sewer at your home, you will be invited to be enrolled into the preventative maintenance program.  Depending on the cause of the blockage, you may get the future maintenance of your sewerline free of charge, cost-shared with the City or fully charged.

If your home is enrolled in the program, you will be sent a letter with the date of the next time sewer connection cleaning crews will be in your area. One month before that date, City crews will confirm the appointment with you and request a convenient time for us to perform the work.

Your assistance is required, because often City crews are required to enter into the basement of your home in order to access the sump or sewer clean-out. Someone needs to be home to give our crew access to your basement.

Install an outside clean-out for City crew access

To provide greater flexibility with regards to the sewer connection cleaning schedule, consider installing an outside clean-out line. A clean-out is a point of entry into the main sewer line which carries storm water and waste water away from the home.

City crews can then perform preventive maintenance at any time, without disrupting your schedule.

A toilet stub is not recognized as a proper clean-out and can be difficult to work from. The effectiveness of clearing and cleaning a blockage from a toilet stub is questionable due to the many pipe bends.

In most cases it is beneficial to install the clean-out as close to the house as possible in order to access the greatest portion of pipe. Install the standpipe portion of the clean-out toward the direction of flow towards the sewer main.

Outside clean-out installation example

Diagram for installing an outside clean-out - Click to view larger image

Find your water or sewer connection

Find out where your pipes run before you dig.

Whether you are digging to find a plugged sewer pipe, planting a tree, or building a fence, it is important to know where all the pipes run.

Damaging underground pipes can be costly and dangerous.

Before you begin a construction and renovation project, locate the route your home's sewer pipes and other utilities take beneath your property.

Get to know what's down below

 WARNING: Digging around water and sewer lines may also impact underground gas lines, which can cause property damage and risk personal safety. Call BC One Call, listed at the right, to find out the most current locations of gas lines and other utilities.

Find your water and sewer service connections

The City's Engineering Services Department keeps records of connection information for most homes.

Contact 3-1-1 to request the sewer connection information for your property.

Generally, there are no records of piping plans on private property but if available, the City’s records will provide information you can use to deduce where the services may run on private property.

Note NOTE: You can also have a City crew locate your water service.

Homes built after 1930

The City may have a record of where the City and private portions of the pipe meet at the property line.

The usual depth of sewer connections is approximately 1.5 m (5 ft) below the road elevation at the property line. However, depending on the property, the connection depth may be much deeper.

Find the property line or front boundary to your lot

The best way to be sure of your property line is to consult with a surveyor. 

You can get a rough idea as to where your property and the City's property meet near the street. This is useful information to have when excavating near the property-line.

Above is a sample photo of an aerial view.

Find the sump

The sump collects rainwater, and controls water levels.

The sump collects rainwater that flows from the gutters and drain tiles, and controls the level of water by sending it to the sewer main.

Typically, sumps are concrete chambers, either cylindrical or square in shape, and can be located inside or outside of the home.

In some older homes, sumps were not installed and the flow of water percolates directly to a rock pit or the ground.